Travel Dispatch: Oh Calcutta!
Fresh from Calcutta: Briony, founder of Bundu Textiles, shares her travel highlights and hidden gems
Oh Calcutta!
A place I have been desperately wanting to visit since we moved to India. I had no idea what to expect but it certainly didn’t disappoint. It’s a heady mix of old and new. Green and concrete. Bombay and Bangalore. And of course there are the textiles. I am always on the lookout for great textiles for my business and Calcutta is home to beautiful Bengali textiles, in particular jamdani - a type of handwoven and knotted fabric that is a specialty of the region. I had a handful of days so I made the most of my time getting to know the city.
stay / eat / shop / do
Stay: Take Your Pick
I stayed at the Taj - a dependable hotel chain in India and a convenient place to stay - also it has a pool! (we don’t have a pool in Bangalore so it's a treat when we travel). If you are looking for a more boutique stay, consider Glenburn Penthouse - a lovely little boutique hotel that comes highly recommended which I will absolutely try next time.
Eat and Shop: From breakfast through to dinner and snacks along the way
First stop upon arriving in Calcutta was lunch (for one) at Sienna. I love a bit of solo travel! While my husband and kids are constrained by the work/school schedule, my business gives me flexibility so I take every opportunity to travel, even if that means jumping on a plane and getting to know a city on my own.
Sienna was on my hit list as it sold pottery, homewares and had a cafe and a restuarant with a bar. How could I go wrong? I sat at the counter and indulged in the most delicious meal. A modern twist on Bengali cuisine with the most refreshing homemade lemon soda to wash it down with.
After lunch I stopped in at the little shops that dotted the street. Mostly fabrics and homewares and a gorgoeous Good Earth at the end. As I wandered, I found a local khadi shop that sold the jamdani fabric that Bengal is famous for. I was in a small slice of heaven!
The next morning I was joined by a friend who travelled from Bombay. We started the morning early at the flower markets and then took ourselves out to an old Calcutta Anglo Indian institute, Flury’s for breakfast. It brought back childhood memories. Breakfast was an Indian English affair with eggs and toast.
While I was there I was approached by Anjana, the owner of another small business which I love, White Champa. She was wearing the most stunning Kurta which I ended up buying! Anjana was so helpful, I sent my measurements and she had it custom made to fit. Every piece she makes is beautifully crafted.
Dinner with Bomti. This recommendation came from a few people so knew it was a must! Bomti, an old soul from Calcutta. A born entertainer. And so generous to open up his exquisite apartment to his guests. The walls are lined with art and pieces from his travels. Drinks were served in the lounge before we moved to admire the art and then sit down to a full spread of the most amazing Bengal food. Every dish was mouth watering. The whole dinner was an experience, right form the beginning when Bomti’s ‘House Help’ meets you at the big ground entry door to what appears to be an old run down warehouse from the British days. His apartment is the gem that’s hiding at the end of the corridor!
Do: Activities that showcase the best of the city
I did two walking tours which were hands down the best introduction to Calcutta. I love an early morning walk when I travel as it’s the best time of day and you see the real workings of the city. I had a private tour with my friend Manjit. I’m going to be honest, tours can sometimes be hit and miss - I’ve been on a few - but Manjit understood how to make it great - it wasn’t scripted so the pace of the information and what I saw felt organic and interesting. The first morning I took a general street tour. We wandered down lanes, ate street snacks and sipped chai before ending up in the Chinese Quarter which blew my mind.
The next day I did another tour with my friend who flew in to join me from Bombay. This time we hit up the flower markets - and it was a sensory overload in every way. We got the best, the good, the bad and the ugly! India is intense so it's good to go early before things really ramp up - including the heat.
And finally, no trip to India is complete without a cricket match. I was lucky enough to be taken to the opening match of the IPL season. Boy what a night. This country sure knows how to do FULL ON.
Wear: What I pack for travel in India
I have a travel uniform which makes these short trips so much easier! I always always travel in my linen jumpsuit from local brand Saphed. It is the most comfortable practical piece. I always have my denim jacket on hand and a scarf for the cold plane and for any unwanted smells that often arise in this country! I also always pack my expandable Longchamps duffle bag which I bought in Athens years ago, to use as carry on on my way back. The airline baggage limits are so low, so I pack all my shopping in the Longchamps bag and carry it on on my way home!
I also have a series of wide leg, highwaisted pants, my local tailor makes for me in khadi cotton. They are cool and practical and go with just about everything.
And finally, my Bundu kaftans! I always take two pieces for the evening. One shirt dress and a couple of kaftans for the days. I try and take new pieces or samples that need photographing - but when I want a true break from work, I take my tried and tested pieces so that there is no pressure to take any photos!
The accessories I use to style my look when travelling
Briony is the Founder and creative force behind fashion brand, Bundu. Hailing from Australia, Briony and her family call Bangalore home. With a true sense of wanderlust and a love for her adopted home India, Briony regularly travels around the country, exploring new places and unearthing beautiful fabrics and artisans. Each Bundu piece is unique in its own way, hand-tailored by one of three local tailors and seamstresses with time and care. Visit the Bundu website and follow the brand on Instagram. Within Singapore, Bundu pieces can be purchased from Badger & Fox.